I’ve always thought that the best travels are feeded by inspiration. From a book, a tale or a family member’s memory, from a documentary or, as happened to me…from a film.
As you probably recognized “Somewhere in Northern Italy” is a quotation taken from the first seconds of the film “Call my by your name” by the Italian film director Luca Guadagnino with Timothée Chalamet and Armie Hammer, based on the novel written by André Aciman.

The first time I read the book was in July 2018 and, when I saw the film, I fall in love with the scenario and the places recorded on it.   Differently from the book, where the love story is settled in the Ligurian Riviera, the film director chose to set it in the North of Italy,  around the Cremasco countryside and Lake Garda.

I was so enchanted that I decided to book a week-end there and I’ll bring you with me trying to share the same emotions I felt in this experience.

So, prepare yourself for an highly CMBYN blog content…

Of course, considering Crema famous only for the film will be reductive: the city has a strategic position. Around it, with maximum 40 km of distance, we can meet cities as Cremona, Piacenza, Bergamo, Milan, Brescia and Lodi. This makes Crema a perfect start point for tourists to explore the north of Italy.
For my stay I found a beautiful apartment in the centre of Crema. It was only 2 minutes distance walking from the cathedral. The room was in a authentic palace of the eighteen century where I spent the night between Saturday and Sunday

CMBYN

 Book the room

I’ve arrived in Crema in the late evening and quickly went out to have a first look around. I think walk in a unknown city during summer evenings is one of my favorite things to do. Firstly because It’s not too hot as during the day time.  Moreover it’s also a good chance to have a first look of what you want to see in details the day after with the sunlight.

What you definitely need to see:

  • Crema’s cathedral and the main square

CMBYN cathedral sceneReference to the film CMBYN at the minute 10:25, when after breakfast Elio brings Oliver around the city to open a bank account in Italy and see the sorrundings.

The scene records the beautiful front side of the cathedral and the “Arco del Torrazzo”. A monumental renaissance door that connects the main square of the cathedral to the main road, XX ( twenty ) September street.

XX September street is a very common name for streets in Italy. Indeed, the 20th of September 1870 is the date when also the state of the church become part of Italy. For Italian history this signed a big step closer to the realization of an unified country.

The little table where the two protagonists discuss around and the book Elio is reading in the scene are now at the info point, in front of the church entrance, with the famous bikes from the film and some materials that helps you discover the city. You can find in particular maps and leaflets to guide you around the place of the film.

Few steps from the main square I’ll like to mention a shop ( for vinyls passionate ): “Freak Music Snc”. A well equipped place where to buy and bring home for example the iconic soundtrack of CMBYN. You can listen at it once back home and live again the film’s atmosphere. Luca Guadagnino, the film director, has chosen many songs of the ’80, like “Love My Way” by The Psychedelic Furs. These song are associate to others specially created for the film from the musician Sufjan Stevens.

For example, this is a part of my favourite song from the film,

Mystery of Love

“Oh, to see without my eyes

The first time that you kissed me

Boundless by the time I cried

I built your walls around me”

Waiting for lunch I walked around the narrow streets of Crema to see some angles of the screenplay like Vicolo Marazzi, where at the minute 01:07:41 the characters Elio and Marzia are walking following them until Piazza Premoli and the newspaper shop where at the 01:32:30 minute the protagonist Elio reach Oliver to talk him about all his insecurities.
  • Lunch in Crema

For lunch you have to try the specialities of this part of Italy and a place where to do it is the “Trattoria Quin”, near the cathedral. The main thing to try is a first course made of a particular type of dumpling with a sweet filling, the “tortelli cremaschi”. A very particular dish for its contrast between the sweet and the salty taste, to eat with a glass of red wine typical of this part of Italy, the Lambrusco.

After lunch, thanks to the bike borrowed my from the owner of my accomodation, I decided to take a ride outside the city in the countryside. Biking through old farmhouses and small villages I ended up after 12 kilometers in the place I was enchanted by when I saw Call Me By Your Name the first time:

  • Fontanile quarantina

CMBYN Crema

Elio’s (the protagonist) secret place, where he usually goes to read surrounded by peace and silence ( around the 53:18 minute ).
Water is really cold “OMG it’s freezign!”, says Oliver first entering the water. More or less 11 degrees all year around.  This is because it comes directly from a spring in the Orobie Alps.

The reflection of the water on dresses and faces gives a very unique and relax atmosphere to the place, perfect to rest in the hot italian summers. The green surrounding the spring it’s perfect to have a picnic and I really suggest you to bring a towel and some cold juice to fully enjoy the peace of this place.
But now is time to bike through again the 12 km and return to Crema to buy something to bring back home, the typical sweet of this city made of yeast dough and candied fruit. It’s name is “Treccia d’Oro”, golden braid, for its particular shape.
Unfortunately my time in Crema flied and it was already time to return back home but I hope this reportage was interesting for you and you’ll have the chance to visit the city and its surroundings, because they really deserve. Let me know what do you think about, if you’ve aver been there or watched the film…I’ll be happy to read your comments!

5 Replies

  1. Very nice blogpost, your style really made me want to read the post until the end – and usually I am an impatient reader:D
    I guess you know where you will find me in summer then…haha

    1. Well…so there would be a chance to see each others there this summer ( I would definitely love to return back to one of my favorite place in Italy)…Thank you for you comment Malla I was really glad and happy to read your words.

      1. Yes there is a chance, hihi:D and you’re more than welcome!

  2. A great read, thank you! I like to visit movie locations as well, but I never thought of doing it to this extent!

    1. Thank you for your comment! I really love these type of travel because they make me feel part of something a romanticize the experience

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